By Peter Wiepert, Bisdorf, Fehmarn
Donated by the family of Bruce Wood
(orig. In German published in 1960), Eng. Translation:
Bruce Wood and E. Bügge-Wood,(Fehmarn-born, now Columbus Ohio-USA)

The size of the island Fehmarn is 185 sq. km, with 40 villages and 1 city (or rather small town), called "Burg" [translated it means fortress or stronghold]. The island has 11,910 inhabitants. The distance from north to south is 13 km - from the south-east point in "Staberhuk" to the northwest point in "Westermarkelsdorf" it is 23 km long. From the southern coast to the mainland Holstein it is 1,2 km, from northern Fehmarn to the next Danish Island of "Laaland" it is 19 km. The length of the entire coastline is 77 km. The landscape is mostly flat, like all the marshes, no woodland on Fehmarn. The highest point is near "Staberdorf", an elevation of 27,2 m high, called the "Hinrichsberg" or Henry’s Hill. A creek, about 13 km in length, that begins in west-Fehmarn, on the nature reserve of "Wallnau", it flows into the Baltic Sea. Fehmarn has the least rainfall in the entire province of " Schleswig-Holstein," - yearly only about 600 mm. Climate in the winter-months is often rough and stormy, where-as from July till September it is mostly very beautiful. - In the litho-spheric period, 5,000 - 3,000 BC Fehmarn became an island. In prehistoric days probably attached to the mainland "Sot-Holstein"; (no such proof has been established, as of yet). In all the elevated areas and geological layers of the soil, many new pre-historic findings can be viewed in the museum. In the prehistoric time-period, it seems, there were no settlers on the island. 1,000 years ago, they say, there was some Forrest land with ash groves, oak-trees, beech-trees - and also deer and wild pigs.

The name "Fehmarn" may have arrived from the "Umbrian or Fomorian tribes", in the Slavic called ‘vamorje’, meaning ‘in the water’ - around the year 750 Germanic people lived here, after that, Slavic tribes (Bodrizer) conquered it. These tribes were fishermen and pirates - after that time, Christianity was introduced from the North, the bishopric rule of "Odense" from the Danish Island of "Fuehnen".

New colonists moved in, maybe from Holstein, Lower Saxony and Denmark, they were conquered and driven out, - some remained long afterward. From about 900 - 1864 mostly under the rule of Danish royalty, but the old "Low German" language and dialects were kept. With the "Low-German"-speaking people living on the island, the land was mostly a "fief", ruled by vassals, like a feudality to the "Hanse" in Luebeck, from 1437 - 1490, later sovereign from "Schleswig" and "Holstein" of noble lineage, therefore often used in battles and war-like conflicts between different rulers of the land: like for instance, during 1420 till 1424 - and in the "30-year war [1618 - 1648]", also in the "Nordic War" as in 1813 and 1848. In the year of 1420 the Danish King Eric of Pomerania killed most of the people living on the island Fehmarn, after that, they had a new colonization coming from Holstein, Dithmarschen, and southern Denmark. On September 14, 1876 the island became part of the Prussian "Landkreis" a Prussian county of Oldenburg, after the Prussian troops had occupied the island Fehmarn on the 15th of March 1864.

In 1320 the King of Denmark "Christoph II", gave to the people on the island, a special "Landrecht" (common law), with many privileges, which was renewed in 1558 by the Danish prince "Herzog Johann the Elder". In Burg "Lübsches Recht" the high court and justice carried out the law of the Hanseatic Lübeck. On the island was never any kind of slavery. Long established residence of the Danish nobility in East-Holstein, for that matter, was just the opposite and strongly restricted.

The ancient heritage law of 1563 was kept in inheritance cases, the closest related male survivor inherited the harness or armor "Harnisch in German", namely (a 20th part of the estate, without the part that the woman brought into the marriage. The new owner was, at the same time responsible for defending the clan in war and with weapons. (In war he had to serve and defend the land, estate and family against any enemy).

In the church districts, (eastern- and northern district worked together), had one chamberlain and six judges ‘Richter’, and the lower court of that church-district, called the "Scheldelgericht". The parliament convened, it was the absolute power of the sworn-in officers, - the highest order was the ‘Obergericht in Gottorf’ or the Upper Court in Gottorf, near Schleswig called the ‘Landesherr’. All the chamberlains and judges of the 3 (three) church districts (altogether 21), made up the "landschaftliche Gericht" the highest court of the land - chamberlains were the people called, who were the representatives of the island Fehmarn. In the lead stood the ‘Landvogt’, mostly a wealthy farmer or the Danish ‘Amtmann’; the chamberlain established the land-court-, the land-criminal-, Bankruptcy-, Mill-, and the Synod-court. - Until 1866 the chamberlain would judge the criminals, if they were condemned to die, with 2 representatives from each church district and 2 to 3 "Gemeinsleuten" (people from each village); they were the leaders of the judges that served the "community" of the island, who would build their "Landtag" and have a meeting in Landkirchen - mostly after the harvest, to convene and rule the common and economical matters - for instance the laborer-, thrasher- and the skilled laborer’s pay. In Burg the mayor and the council made up the judgmental and community office. On Fehmarn the arable land was judged to be the most fertile black-dirt lands in Germany.

Besides all the different grains and vegetables they also grow and cultivate grass- and vegetable seeds as well as bulbs. Agriculture is highly and intensively carried out, mostly fully automated and mechanically done with highly modern machinery. Black and white ‘Holstein’ cattle are among the most successful cattle breeding in all of Germany.

Villages in the past were mostly built in a long-row form, as running in a north-to-south direction, with 3 to 4 entrance gates, which could be closed at night. The area in the village used to be uncultivated until after 1880, without gardens and fenced-in areas; now it is different and all homes have beautifully landscaped flower gardens and areas for lawns. Building-designs like home- and business-places are extremely elegant. After 1900, with the use of fertilizers, which brought increased grain- and straw harvesting, the houses and the barns began to be separate, already after 1600. The traditional Fehmarn-house was usually in the style of the "Lower Saxony architecture", but with different forms in each hamlet. In the back of the home you still find the large "Saal" or hallway, also called the "Doens", for all-family activity and harvesting. In the front of the old farmhouses you saw the family symbol, "Husbrannt, Low German" a wooden oval gable. You never see the horse’s head or the old "Brannt" anymore, the old Fehmarn-style of home is seldom found. (In Dänschendorf, Vadersdorf and Burg), farms were usually enclosed with tall trees like ash groves, white- or red- hawthorn hedges. In the middle of the village, next to the watering pond was the ‘Thingplatz’ or the council place where the sworn-in headmen (chieftains) would meet and make decisions for the neighborhood. In these open-air meetings they would consider the "Woe and the Wealth", ‘De Woe un de Weh, Low German’ of their neighbors. Here they had a circle of large fieldstones, where the sworn-in chosen representatives of the island sat in the middle, under the ‘Ding-Bom’ "Think-Tree", an ash-tree, or hawthorn-tree. In the evening the young people of the village would play their games at the "Ding", also practice their folk dances, with beautiful melodies and thoughtful verses, like: "Miss Inge, and who sits at our Dinge"?

Old Fehmarn costume [dress] was simple and plain, without too much glitter. Men also wore a special suit, which disappeared about 1820 - Women’s costume lasted a bit longer; also old fashioned furnishings of the homes are to be found in the "Heimat Museum", museum on the island. The language was always "Low German" and is passing away. No difference is made between male and women. The old people used to say: "Dor steiht een Koh, he steiht op Tüller, bruuk melken. Low German" translated: there’s the cow, tied up and needs milking!

Since Fehmarn was long separated from the mainland, the traditions didn’t change much. Until after 1920, weddings were performed on Thursday, the bridegroom received a dowry as well as the bride; he brought a horse, 2 milking cows and a farmers wagon. -‘Fastnacht’ was celebrated as a fertility-cult feast. - Christmas was less important. Until about 1940. Thursdays was farmer’s Sunday "Bauernsonntag" in Burg, when the farmers do there shopping, hold their meetings and also enjoy some entertainment.

Funerals until 1910 were kept rather festive, long black mourning coats were worn.

Seafaring and fishing, besides agriculture used to be the occupation of many people on the island, this is done away with in modern times. Only one fishing vessel, located on the island and 5 local fishermen are active here.

After 1945 many fishermen from East Germany came to the island, also from other parts, fishing vessels landed in the island harbors to unload their catch. In 1820 there were still 28 sailboats on the island Fehmarn.

The religion of the residing population was evangelic Lutheran. Of the new displaced people there are about 350 Roman Catholic; we also have [new on the island] around 200 people belonging to sects of different believes. Besides the four island churches, is now a Catholic chapel built in 1957 at the south-west part in the city of Burg. The clergy performed family research and genealogy.

The city of Burg has 4,575 residents. The name derived from an old fortress built by the Wenden [also Sorbian] tribes, since the year 1300 already called a city. Originally it was a long village called in German ‘Reihendorf’ with a market place in the center. The town hall ‘Rathaus’ was built in 1901. The city seal, escutcheon ‘Stadt-Wappen’: shows a ring wall with two towers and a door to the ocean, on the eastern wall of the town hall. The old town hall was a frame work structure from the 16th century. - In the "Orth-Strasse 7", on the southwestern side of the market, a small, much observed house with a typical gable inscription ‘Brannt’, built about 1783. In the main street ‘Breite Strasse’, still old homes from the 18th century, like number 28 "The Schumacher-house" (now the senator Thomsen house), and number 29 the home of "Willbrandt", beside the book store "Schmidt". In front of " Dr. Brunk" number 32, stood until about 1600 the public open-air "Think Place" was elevated - marked with a large flat stone, where the chosen chieftains had to perform their oath in "Low German". The "double oak tree" ‘Doppeleiche’ is located south of it and was planted there in 1898 as a memorial to the "Schleswig-Holstein-War of 1848 - 1850".

The museum (Leader Peter Wiepert, Bisdorf), only open in the summer, Wednesdays and Saturdays from 14:30 - 18:00 P.M., sometimes also open on special occasions - observe the sign at the entrance!

On three floors you’ll find 22 departments, like memorabilia of the old Burg with a collection of seals, old shooting galleries and weapons. City deeds and documents, traditional delivery of the city management, police, the courts and also the courts from Landkirchen with a picture of the chamberlain "Witt". Seat of the high court ‘Kämmerer und Gerichtspostillion’, the chamberlain and the judges, the house model, the old kitchens with pantry, old stoneware, tin- and pewter-ware. Stove plates pictures of torn-down homes. Mariner’s department with sail boots from Fehmarn and fishing equipment. Skilled artisan department ‘Handwerkerraum’, with tools, arts and crafts, as well as the traditional old-time guilds - among others the forester- and builder’s society called ‘Hegeband der Bauhütter’, drinking -vessels, genealogical department, collection of ceramic tiles, antique furniture, porcelain, old coins, stamps, costumes, bog findings, botany, framer’s tools, dishes, lighting, hunting utensils, and a special collection of tools used in pagan days. - In the house number 45, right next to the museum, the author from Fehmarn: "Charlotte Niese", [born *1851, died +1935], lived there with her grandfather "clerk Matthiessen", in her youth. She was born in the ‘Kompastorat’, Priesterstr. 3, south of the churchyard. In house number 44, opposite the churchyard, the author Amalie Schoppe, nee Weise, [born *1791 in Burg, died +1858 in U.S.A.], she was a friend of the author Hebbel, had her little Kindergarten established there.

The St. Nilolai-Church, built in 1243 and later in 1513 the bell tower was added, (this can be toured only with permission of the pastor). In the tower you have a beautiful view over the city and the island, all the way to Holstein in the southern direction and to "Laaland, Denmark" in the northern direction. -

On the East Side from the church the "house for the dead", ‘Likhus in Low German’. With the Fehmarn Memorial, a sandstone plate with ancient inscription saying that in 1420 the "Danish King Eric" devastated the island Fehmarn. 85 years later the choir was built there, with 6 cross-arched vaults, a year later the house for the dead, the chamber for the fitting room [special garb for the priest], the choir-pews and the organ was installed. Hans Wolder and Hans Gudemann were the headmasters at that time, "bidd gott v. se un v. all woldet", Low German for "Pray God, to bless all the benefactors", in German: ("Bitt Gott für sie und alle Wohltäter").

The interior of the church with the organ was newly renovated in 1939-1940. On the north side of the altar the holy St. Blasius, he was the Saint to protect against colds. - Old-fashioned altar of middle-aged antiquity, with scenes of "Christ’s Passion" in German: ‘die Leidensgeschichte’. - A Gothic baptismal font with figurines of saints and Latin inscription: "In the year 1391 this was given by: Raufe Beno Korp, bishop of Arosia". We don’t know whether that was a place in southern Sweden or where Arosia is. Legend has it that "Raufe" came to Fehmarn with pirates or raiders.

In the church used to be many catholic, saint-like figurines and pictures, some are still to be seen in wall coves. - On the southern side of the building are the "Epitaphs" of the families: ‘Priess (Pruess), Raleff (Rahlff), Rauert and Gloxin, out of the 17th century. - The "Reformation" came to Fehmarn in 1539.

In the "Süder Str." Southern str., one can still find old-fashioned homes. On the home-site of number 57, they had the gruesome witch-trials, that toke place around 1620 till 1660, the torch chamber. Across the street from it used to stand the "Mother Mary Chapel" in German ‘Liebfrauen-Kapelle’.

Badstaven Street got that name because of a middle-aged bathhouse. Here they used to have women’s jail. On the West Side of the street (behind the churchyard) pieces of the old Burg [fortress], now an electrical power station. The sinking area (geological changes in the soil) was originally since 1580, part of the sandbar, that used to be the harbor in Burg.

Here many bog items have been found. - The "Mellenthinplatz", named after the Prussian Captain Mellenthin, who in 1864, with the 8th company of the "Brandenburger Infantry Regiment" occupied the island Fehmarn. - Now it is the sports arena of the city Burg; it used to be the city’s bleaching area. North of the "Swan-Lake", situated at the Wilhelmstraße, you find the courthouse, in front of it, you see the monument to remind us of the overthrow of the island Fehmarn by the Prussian troops. - Next to it the beautiful city park, used to be called the "Wilhelminenplatz".

In the Bahnhofstraße, on the right side, you find the Post-office. Here you can catch the post-bus and travel all over the island. At the "Niendorfer Weg" there is the middle school of the island, with a large sports arena. East of it is the newly built hospital. The northern mill ‘Nordermühle’, the only mill that is still in use, is the windmill on the island. North of the city a new part was established after 1950. Here a new agricultural- and trade school was built. - Along the railroad station, ‘the Bahnhof’ the street called "Steinkamp" is the cooler for vegetable-storage, it was built in 1957, for trading fresh fruit and vegetables up to the summer. Near the "Bahnhof" the only industrial business of the island a brickyard called the "Ziegelei Neuwohner". Clay has been dug there; this is also very interesting for geologists, because of the different soil layers there. - In the Sahrensdorfer Strasse the old age home ‘Heiligen Geiststift’, in the Kästnerstraße the new old-age home "Altersheim Tabea". At the end of the Mathildenstraße left, is the middle-aged St. Jürgen-Chapel of (1439). In those days it was near the ‘Siechenhaus’, a home for the incurable ill. Today still with middle-aged wall decorations and (pictures of the sainted people, (Heiligenbildern), also the figuratively displayed group of the holy knight "Jörgen"; who is riding on a white horse, and the lady standing at the end of the group, the praying princess "ASA", freed from the dragon, slain by the knight who was having antlers on his head.

Near the chapel was the bloody place of the island called "Calvary", on this field many women, who were suspected of witchcraft, were burnt at the stakes, also criminals and the cadaver of animals were buried here. Therefor we hear many spooky stories and legends about this place.

Burgtiefe. During the summer there is constant bus connection from the market place in Burg to the beaches, in German: ‘Badestrand’. On the left, before the "Inland-sea" ‘Binnensee’, the newly erected housing edition ‘Neusiedlung’. On the right, near the bridge lies a small islet called "Kolhoff", this is a place where the see-gulls have their breeding place, you’ll see a sign "don’t disturb"! There you can view the beautiful southern beach area - to the left is the free beach - and the life-saving station. - Next to the ‘Wartturm-Restaurant’ the ruins of the old fortress ‘Glambeck’, built around 1210, it was to serve as the seat of the Danish chamberlain (Amtmann). During the 30-year long war [1618 - 1648], in 1627 it was wrecked and hard fought over. The outer wall is 75 m long and 34 m wide. In 1908 it was dug out and repaired. At the eastern side you can still see the markings, where the old entrance was. Next to that is the cellar with the thick walls, in the center there was a well. On the southern side of that place used to be the rooms for the guards and the living quarters for the manager, on the north side the kitchen and the housekeeping quarters, now it is all in shambles, not recognizable stoves and fireplaces, as well as oven and the well. Pirates for a short time used Glambeck, around 1450. It was called the pirate’s fortress of the Vitalien brothers, but they were not the proprietors; it is often mentioned to visitors, that Störtebecker and his gang housed there.

On the coast of Burgtiefe was until 1870 the anchor- and loading dock for the sailboats of Fehmarn, because the harbor in Burgstaaken was still under construction. At the end of the land-tongue [small peninsular], there is boat-connection to the harbor in Burgstaaken. Although one can reach it by going around the inn-land sea ‘Binnensee’. - Across from the "Tiefe", on the other side is the harbor entrance of Burgstaaken and the land-tongue called the "Wulfener Hals".

In Burgstaaken are the large grain silos of the company "Hiss", "Kölln" and "Raifeisen", the tall building owned by " Kölln" is often nick-named the "Köllner Dom", with the larger wheat-flower mill. - That harbor is 200 m long, 25 to 60 m wide, it was built between 1867 - 70. In the evenings you see a very interesting harbor idyll, with many different fishing boats landing here, unloading their catch, which are already packed in cases, to be delivered to the big city’s markets.

On the west side of the harbor is a dockyard, next to that is the anchor place for the new, highly modern life boat, also the working place for the stone fishers, and the divers who dive for the big stones in the Baltic Sea, which are being split at the harbor’s wharf in Burgstaaken, and used, to build the new harbor for the "Vogelfluglinie" behind Puttgarden.

The name "Burgstaaken" derived from a jail that was there called the stock-house, it was standing at a place, where now is the office of the "Toll-collector". Behind that lies the "Galgenteich", where the city’s gallows were located. - The old grain-storage, attic of "Peter Hiss" date back to the past, when Burgstaaken still had ferry-boot connection with Laaland in Denmark, at about 1750 - 80. There is also an indicator that marks the flood level of the devastating "storm-flood of 1872".

On your way to Burg on the left, a large, newly developed ‘east-German’ fishing center.

The steamship traffic from Fehmarn to the mainland, [Heiligenhafen, Kiel and Lübeck], has been closed since 1945, and is now only possible with motor- or sailboat for excursions around the island for instance.

Albertsdorf, lies 6 km west of Burg, toward the southwest coast, with the extension of "Gold" toward the beach, here the Baltic Sea is very shallow. Along the beach area a camp for tents permitted by the authority of Fehmarn. Close by is the last Stone-hedge grave "Hühnengrab" and is called the ‘Alversteen’ named after "Albert" and so is the hamlet called "Albertsdorf". There you’ll find the "Rickert’s estate, ‘Rickert-Haus’ built in old Fehmarn-style.

Altentheil, with several buildings, 4 km north of Dänschendorf (here you can catch the Post-bus from Burg). Beautiful north-beach, with its pine grove [planted for protection from the wind]. Here they often have camp meetings for the youth, the restaurant "Rosengarten" with it’s thatch-roof bungalows and landscaped gardens with dwarfs displayed, also leftover tree-stumps found in the northern inland sea,‘Binnensee’.

Avendorf, on the Burg-Fehmarnsund road, [rail- and post-buses]. Fully mechanically improved farm, estate of the family "Gossel", at the end of the 17th century owned by two Gossel families, who were chamberlains or in German ‘Landvogt’. It has a "Reisen-Soll" so called because of travelers coming from the mainland and they would water their horses, some came to trade livestock.

The addition of Fehmarnsund with the harbor for the ferryboats. It was already established in 1231 and only privileged landlords could cross; passengers had to be carried to and from the boats.

The old ferry house, which is now the home of clerks of court, used to be connected with a dike. The leftover construction is still recognizable. Across the sound is now the construction of a bridge that is to be 1,3 km long for rail- and automobile traffic. It is to be a part of an international street bridge, called the "Vogelfluglinie", going from Hamburg over Fehmarn to the northern countries. In the sound is a long sandbank called the green reef, "grüne Wohld in German" with trees and tree-stumps, proof that Fehmarn in ancient days was connected to the mainland.

Several legends testify to this. See my collection of legends about Fehmarn, now in print.

Bannesdorf, is another church hamlet ‘Kirchdorf’ , 6 km away from Burg, Postbus [bus service]. ‘Johanniskirche’ named after the apostle Johannes, at the end of the village. Built at the end of the 14th century, with its wooden bell-tower ‘Glockenturm’. Plain church with some wall paintings. Also shows the insignia of the different clans and brotherhoods, or guilds, the displayed preferred pews "hohen Stühlen" with their own epitaphs. Old collection bag ‘Klingelbeutel’. In front of the restaurant "Albert" an old poplar-tree called the piece poplar or in German "Friedenspappel", they say it blossomed when the war of 1871, 1918 and 1945 came to an end. In the center of the village, used to be a giant Stone-hedge grave ‘Steinkammergrab’. This was also the birthplace of the organist Frentz Tundar, the organist of the church St. Marien in Lübeck; he was the father-in-law of the famous organist "Buxtehude".

Bisdorf, a typical long village of Fehmarn with beautiful cultivated gardens around the homes and well-improved estates [farms], 6 km from Burg. Post-bus connection. On the estate of "Peter Wiepert" you find the last and largest ash-tree of a kind "Bann-Esche" [superstitious purpose] in the whole province - it is now dying. These trees were once planted around (2.Febr.) and Eastern to prevent fire, infectious disease and epidemics. Nobody was allowed to cut it with an ax or a saw.

Blieschendorf, 3 km west of Burg, rail- and Post-bus connection. With farms it used to have two sections, on the way to Burg, the "left-over part" of a Jewish cemetery with a memorial stone.

Further to the East is the settled land called ‘Senke’, this is part of the old harbor now called "the blessing", in German "Seegen".

Bojendorf, on the west side, 16 km from Burg, rail- and bus service to Petersdorf, - it still has a typical old Fehmarn-like village center, - a stone-wall around the village. West of the hamlet the nature reserve ‘Naturschutzgebiet Wallnau’, with many [rare] water birds, they seek sanctuary and use this area to breed. - After 1900 fishponds were built, it is still one of the nature recluse for birds and fish. Don’t disturb the birds while they’re breeding! Here you can see where the Kopendorfer creek flows into the sea, the only creek on the island Fehmarn. Walllnau was built for the fishing industry after 1870 and for the cultivation of it, by the engineer Kröhnke, he was the first planer of the modern "Vogelfluglinie". An old legend tells of the Bojendorfer boys grabbing the sinking sun in the evenings, put it in a boat, where the old shepherd from the village hides it in a barn, during the night they take it back along the northern edge toward the north-east edge of Presen, where it is being washed and polished thoroughly by the mermaids and next morning rises out of the Baltic Sea and brings warmth and fertility to the island Fehmarn. North of the village is the lake of fasting, "Fastensee"; from there the fish were delivered to the clergy from Fehmarn during the Lenten period, mostly in the period before the reformation.

Dänschendorf, one of the largest farm villages, 10 km away from Burg. Bus service ‘Postbus’ - two parts of the village, small and little one "Groten" u. Lüttendörp". At the watering pond ‘Dorfsoll’, a memorial for soldiers that died in war, in the west part of the hamlet the last old home-styles that you find on the island, the "Hahn" property with the old inscription ‘Husbrannt’ and the wooden gable ‘Brettergiebel’, inside the house the old oven ‘Backofen’ with the last shepherd’s house, but it is renovated. Near the restaurant "Molge" the last laborers quarters with the typical double doors under one roof. In this village the oldest burial guild ‘Totenträgergilde St. Osewald’, it was established in about 1430, they still carry their deceased members of the village to the grave. An elaborately built farmer’s estate. On the "Becker" farm you still see an old pigeon -house on top of a wooden pole.

Gahlendorf, 6 km east of Burg, with the clay construction farmhouse "Lehmhof". Here is now a modern chicken farm on the eastern steep coast ‘Steilküste’. In 1882 many ancient coins were found here, called (Bracteate) on the farm owned by " Clausen". See in the museum.

Gammendorf, large farm-village toward the north coast, 11 km from Burg, with bus-service ‘Postbus’. Another two part village, the higher and the lower part, "Hogen und Siedendörp", with large farm buildings. North of the village a large area called the Inner Sea, or ‘Binnenseegebiet’ with many small islets, called "Oevers". A real paradise for birds, in all a gorgeous landscape with reed, bulrush and unusual water plants, a haven for students of botany.

On the right side of the dyke overpass is the monument "Niobe", that was built in 1933 in memory of that student sailboat; it went down about 8 km north of it, on July 25,1932 with 69 officers and cadets [sailors] on board. A sudden strong storm caused the ship to sink. On the inner side of the dyke, as well as in other coastal areas of the island, forest belts were planted in the last 10 years, to strengthen the dykes, and as windbreaker for the island.

To the North, on a clear day with good vision one can view the Danish island "Laaland", 20 km away from Fehmarn. On the German border, in the Fehmarn Bay lies the fire ship called the "Fehmarnbelt".

Gollendorf with it’s estate called "Bellevue" built in 1780, one of the largest estates ‘Großbauernhof’ on Fehmarn, 125 ha, with intensive vegetable farming.

Hinrichsdorf, old farming village, 6 km from Burg - until 1617 in possession of the noble family "Pogwisch", at that time it was purchased for 22,000.- Taler by the representative of the island.

Katharinenhof, an edition about 9 km away from Burg - on the eastern cliff-like coast with some forest. Postbus, bus service. A large estate built in about 1760. A beloved excursion and visitor’s restaurant is the - "Waldpavillon". On the coast the terra or soil often appears grayish, greenish and heavy, when it dries it looks like baked cake, after a rainfall it gets like glue and is sticky, like putty. The steep cliff at the northern grove called the "Norderholz" is often visited by geologists, because some interesting discoveries have been made there, among others [paleolithic] formations, like petrified items, in German (Adlersteine, Low German Stranneier), - at times you can find amber on the beach. The Baltic Sea shows here an ever changing, preponderant picture, - at times it is peaceful and then again it’s stormy and wild; then you see the white froth spraying far over the coast and the woodland.

At this coastline large destruction appear in the cliffs. One tree after the other is dragged into the sea. Hundred (100) years ago we still had 50 m of meadowland reaching into the ocean, where large herds of sheep were grazing. South of the ruined gentleman farm (verfallenes Herrenhaus), the old Stone-henge site of Vitzdorf, one of the last Stone-hedge graves ‘Hühnengrab’, where one of the people from the island hid and saved himself during the destruction in 1420; but contrary to the legend, no history of the kind has been documented.

Katharinenhof during 1928 to 1942 was divided into small farmer’s settlements, with 25 - 40 ha each. Leading up to the estate a beautiful avenue of Linn-trees can still be seen. The land is hard to farm, because of the clay content in the soil, yet good for growing wheat.

The terras extends in wide, at times, narrow strips as well as in deep layers of the soil, all the way to the town "Burg" and into the center of the island.

Klausdorf, 8 km northeast of Burg. In the field center several, up to 20 m high elevations, it is called the "Klinkenberg", and also nick-named "Alpine Fehmarn", "Fehmarnsche Schweiz", north of it a long receding stretch of ground ‘Bodensenke’, called "Seegen", old harbor area and "Pirate’s hiding cove" ‘Seeräuberschlupfwinkel’, which ran all the way to the northern side of the hill. - Once the (old cult area of the "Sorbian tribes" the "Treppenberg"); here in the "Seegen" sails at night a black "ship with the dead" [legend or tall tale!], with a wounded warrior of Sorbic origin called "Wükebor" on board.

Kopendorf, lies west on the island, 2 km from Petersdorf, [rail- and bus-connection]. West of the village the fish-breeding ponds, built in 1872 and regulated for cultivation and raising pike [a delicate and palatable fish], this used to be the "Kopendorfer lake with a sluice-gate, to the sea ‘Schleusenanlage’.

The surrounding meadows and pastures were the last one’s of community lands [as a good deed to the poor] "Allmenden"; this was established in 1860/70 on the island Fehmarn and called in German: ‘Gemeindeländereien’.

Landkirchen, is located in the center of the island and is called a church village or in German: ‘Kirchdorf’, it is located 3 km west of Burg, rail- and bus-connection, ‘Bahn- und Postbus’. On the land called "Wieschke", across from the vicar’s quarters, used to be the old judicial district ‘Gerichtsherberge’. On the vicar’s property was until 1891 a house for the organist, called the ‘Organistenhaus’, where the (Low-German poet) "Klaus Groth" lived with his friend "Leonhard Selle" from 1847 till 1852, there he wrote some of his poetry, now called his ‘Quickbornlieder’. On the southwest side is the entrance to the cemetery. Until 1906 the old prison, the notoriously famous land prison "Landstaaken" (staaken meaning stockade), a building built with heavy fieldstones. Across from "Petersen’s restaurant" you find two old frame-work houses, ‘Fachwerkständergebäude’ - above the door of the barn structured with oak posts and beams that were tarred [painted with creosote]; with one of the usual markings, here the owner had been a "Goessel". On the island were at one time over 1800 house-markings, not only to mark the building, weapons, also as signatures and documents like ensignias or like in the USA as a branding iron. Over 15 old-Fehmarn clans had their own coat of arms, but mostly house markings "Brant": ‘Hausmarken’.

Around 1234 the "Petri" church was built,- next to the church is the wooden bell-steeple from the time of the 30-year war [1618 - 1648]. The church structure is a treasure and well-worth visiting; it is one of the more unusual in all of the country churches in Schleswig-Holstein. You have to get the key from Mr. Hahn, who is in charge of the bell-tower, at the village entrance. The altar is from the year 1715 with sceneries depicting the passion story of the crucifixion and a medieval sacrificial cross, - to the left, against the wall, a secondary altar with the "Codras-Legend" and "finding of the cross" - in the north-eastern corner grave stones, an old baptismal font from 1494, (this was later turned into a coal storage). - On some racks [shelves] are several praying stools from the women’s furnishings with ornaments and house-markings, - the old land-block "Landesblock", not dated, here the ancient seals and documented land-privileges were kept until 1867, - these were taken out at special court sessions and ceremoniously displayed. On the north wall an impressionable Epitaph of the ‘clerk of the petty session’ ‘Landschreiber Schmalfeldt’, who died in 1651, - in the north-west corner a baptismal font with biblical scenes in plastic sculpturing, - in the middle room several interesting epitaphs of the families "Wollder-Tiedemann" with Low German inscriptions. The land high bailiffs "Witt und Gossel" - also the old ‘cousin-ship pew’, "nepotism" of the families Mackeprang and Witt, of the oldest known ‘Germanic’ clan’s unity, with interesting "Beliebungen" (rules and regulations, dated back to the year 1611). The chancery was donated in 1727 by the farmer "Drewes Wilder", above the entrance gate a "Symbol of the ‘strong-willed man’ in old Norsk "wilde Mann". In the southern room under the ceiling, the "Mother Marie crown", Mary with the baby Jesus in her arm. On the southern wall the memorial of the war veterans who died in the first World War 1914-18, donated by Prof. Roehr.

In the southeast corner you see the epitaph of the "Sievert" clan ‘Vetternschaft’, - an old church-bell dated back to 1494 and a library with religious argumentatives, donated around 1780 by ‘the pastor Stresov’ in Burg. On the walls of the side naves ‘Seitenschiffe’ the high pew, built in 1770, called the "hohen Stühle" for the rich farmer families, also called the swallow nests "Schwalbennester", to day not in use anymore. In the southern addition is still the poor sinner’s stone, "Armsünderstein" - at the entrance door until 1856 the church- (jail)- "Kaak" (Schandpfahl). The newly erected cemetery with it’s honor-cross of the veterans who died in WWII, lies west of the village behind the Restaurant "Petersen", the very beautiful cemetery. East of the old cemetery the "Hintzenhof" Hinzen estate and the stink area called: "Stinkbüdelsgang" in German, here lived the poor laborers with narrow streets.. In the year 1878 the mill of Mr. "Resthöft" stood here, it is not in use anymore, now here is a swine-mast experimentation company of Mr. Hiss. At the railway station is a vegetable storage company with modern buildings, belonging to Mr. Warnsholdt.

Lemkendorf, is also a large farm village, 9 km west of Burg, rail- and bus-service, with a large well-organized village center, as you often find on the island, - in the center a drinking pond for the animals, called the ‘Dorf-Soll’. In front of the farm-estates are still the farmer’s fields - less gardens. On the East Side of the village, at the center of the hamlet called ‘Dorfplatz’ you find the only river (or creek) - behind it under intensive farm management is the estate of Mr. Rickert.

Lemkenhafen - now a fishing- and laborer’s village - 8 km west of Burg - in the middle ages it was a town with their own mayor and council. The city-seal ‘Stadtwappen’, is an upright walking lamb. - Till 1850 it was a busy commercial place, where barley and grain was shipped to Sweden and Norway - wood was imported from Finland. In the bay, 3 villages sank - (this has not been documented). Two small land areas are called large- and round islet "grot- u. runn Warder, Low German". - One place in the bay is called the "church stone", ‘Kirkensteen in Low German’ - here many old skeletons were found - they say that it was once an old cemetery. About 1450 a place like the "St. Mary’s Chapel" is mentioned in an old document.

In the bay toward the village "Orth", a ruined ‘giant Stone-hedge grave’ was found, called "stot Havmann". There is a windmill, ‘Segelwindmühle’ built in 1787 north of the village, it is the last of that kind in Europe - it has been renovated by the government of the country ‘Landesregierung’, now under management and owned by the island "museum society" ‘Museumverein’, after completion it is free for visitors to view it. Pay attention to the shield at the entrance.

Meeschendorf, is located 5 km east of Burg. Bus connection from the post office. South of the village is a beautiful beach called "lazy sea" the "Fulen See, Low German". The cow heads, as gable decorations on an old barn, are actually installed by a cattle trader, not to be mistaken for a typical symbol of Fehmarn.

Mummendorf, only about 1 km south of Landkirchen, with the estate "Rosenhof", "Augustenberg" and the mill: ‘Hochfeldermühle’. The construction of the bridge toward Fehmarn, called "Vogelfluglinie" is going to bring many changes to the island’s scenery.

West of the village used to stand a great stone-hedge grave sight.

Neujellingsdorf, located 4 km west of Landkirchen, with the small farming settlement "Westerbergen" - Free swim area at the "Gel Oever, Low German" (yellow bank) near the Lemkenhafen bay area. In the village you find Marquardt’s seed cultivation station with a modern greenhouse - in spring beautiful blossoming tulip fields. In this village is Wichmann’s mink farm located.

Niendorf, located 3 km north of Burg, bus connection. With several modern, also some old-fashioned farms. Most farms are about the size of about 35 hectare, on this island. The retired teacher Mr. Knust owns a nice size and interesting stone collection.

Orth, about 19 km from Burg, rail- and Post-bus connection. Second harbor on the island Fehmarn’s West Side, to day not much in use anymore. Lately you find some marine boats and sailing yachts. The harbor was built in 1880 and is 176 m long, 56 m wide, 5-6 m deep. On the west side the memorial of "Kaiser Wilhelm I". In the center of the village is the oldest fisher-house on the island Fehmarn. The ‘Gastwirtschaft Jark’ restaurant is a typical old-fashioned shipper-home.

Ostermarkelsdorf, 3 km north west of Burg, passing the fully modernized "Amalienhof". 1641 a farmer from Ostermarkelsdorf lost his farm in a gamble with a councilman from Burg; he had to leave the island with wife and child. Later each looser and winner who gambled was openly flogged at the court’s "Schandphahl" with a leather whip, that dealt out the punishment.

Petersdorf. This is the center of the western church district with their own church, 1721 citizens; it is located 11 km west of the city of Burg - rail- and post-bus connection. With a large village center, called the cheese pot "Käsfatt" in Low German. There are 2 memorials or statues, one for the soldiers, who died and the cross for the lost east "Kreuz des Ostens"! West of the village a drinking-station for the live-stalk ‘Dorfteich’, here stood until after 1860 the great open "Think Place", "Dingplatz" with 24 seats (large boulders). The Johanniskirche, originally dedicated to St. Peter - with a 65-m high tower, newly renovated - Here the visibility is way out, over the Sea. The altar was donated by the farmer "Tönnis Marquardt" in 1702, with their family cress, identifying his clan, a jumping deer. On the northern side of the altar a very nice carved middle-aged altar with figurines of the passion play of our lord - also a well-preserved sacrament house. - In the church the epitaphs from the councilman "Humborch" from Lübeck, a Mrs. Lafrentz from Orth, in old-Fehmarn attire "Tracht" - of Juergen Rauert, with the burial of Christ, - Matthäus Brandt with the group at the cross, - that of the Pastor Boldebuchius and the organist Teuthorn. On the posts are old chandeliers from different middle-aged societies or guilds,"Gilden" of the church district, like the poor- and the "Osewaldts-guild". Building construction of the church naves has many secrets. In the north-side nave you find the pew for the "Flügge Estate". On the south side the poor sinner’s rock, in another cove on the east side of the church used to be an ecclesiastic figurine - legend has it, that this is pertaining to the gospel of our apostle "John". East of the village, about 1 km on the way to Dänschendorf is the "Galgenberg", this was the place where people were killed or hung in the name of the law of the district Fehmarn and also the city of Burg, next to that, the council’s pond called the "Ratssoll", here also convicts were put in a sack and drowned. The last one killed here, on January 27, 1853 was the killer Bohnensack from Riepsdorf in Holstein, he was decapitated with an ax on the "Galgenberg", he had killed the "Church-District-Judge" ‘Wohler’ in Sartjendorf. During the executions 2 - 3 people from each village had to attend and build a circle, to close off the area.

Puttgarden, a larger farm village on the north coast of the island, 7 km north of the city of Burg - Postbus connection. A newly blossoming village, now this is the last railroad station on the island and the end of a highway on the German "Autobahn" of the "Vogelfluglinie". North of the village the new ferryboat harbor for the ferryboats going to Laaland, Denmark. This will be a very modern station with new, most modern facilities. Dailey there will be more modern trains put in use, in the next 10 years international travel will be a reality. It offers a spectacular view from the dike, over the Fehmarn Belt to the far away, 19 km Dänisch neighbor-island "Laaland". Many ships of all nations are passing by. On the left, where one can see the foaming, seething of waves, and the dangerous sand riff near Puttgarden, in years gone by, this place was called "the grave of our sail boats". On the banks you find the nature reserve called the "Gruener Brink", here you even find heath growing. In the meadowland stood in olden days the oldest church of the island, the "Peter-Paul-Chapel" - with a "sacrificial block", in German an "Opferstock". Here was also the landing harbor for the ferry-boat connection to Laaland, which was used by the pilgrims coming from the North lands, crossing Laaland, Fehmarn, Lübeck and then toward Rom - or when they returned from there.

In Puttgarden the old farm "Schacht" estate, built typically according to old Fehmarn tradition - across the way the estate of "Hans Rauert", with it’s widest barn on the island, modern and harmoniously established. West of the village stands a radar-tower, which transfers the wireless telephone service from Hamburg to Kopenhagen. Next to it is the camp for 3000 displaced people; it was established in 1946, now it is almost completely empty. On the way to Gammendorf the newly built settlement of Matthiasfelde, Johannisberg, Krummensick and Seelust. Near Johannisberg, around 1880 here were cave dwellings, with prehistoric kitchen leftovers, called "Kjokkemoeddinger" in Danish. East of Puttgarden the lighthouse built in 1832, called the "Marienleuchte", with it’s own weather- and mariners signal-station as well as foghorn. The lighthouse (not to be climbed by tourists), at the coastal bank with stony protection. Beautiful view of the Baltic Sea. This place used to be called "Oldeborg" after an old fortress, which was already ruined 1200 years ago. Here you often find leftover, ancient weapons and other old findings.

Presen, a small farm village on the northeast coast, 8 km away from Burg, - low lying - with a modern water chain pump. Here they started, around 1900 with the very successful breeding and cultivating of the Holstein cows, called in German the "schwarzbunte Viehzucht", those herds you have to see.

Püttsee, a small farming village in the south west corner of Fehmarn - 9 km south west of Petersdorf. Rail-bus connection into Sulsdorf. West of the village a low-lying area, called the ‘Niederung’, it used to be the old lake called the "Kopendorfer See", now connected with the fishing industry "Fluegger Stert", the 94 ha large and very old farm called Fluegge estate "Hof Fluegge". South of it the 40 m high lighthouse built in 1940, this is the only tower that is permitted to be climbed and viewed by visitors. It offers a beautiful view, all the way to Heiligenhafen. At the tail end, called the "Steert" always-large swarms of swans, also other rare water birds.

Sahrensdorf, 3 km east of Burg - Post-bus available - the Inner sea south of the village, with cultivated pike breeding stations (Karpfenteichen). On the field’s edge were many findings of stone-age material reported. Flower fields with bulb cultivation "Blumenzwiebelanbau" by Ludolf Schroeder. On the way toward Burg a new, very beautifully built cemetery.

Sartjendorf, 2 km west of Landkirchen. The old thatch-roof barn, where in 1852, Mr. "Wohler" was murdered by the laborer Bohnensack. Later - at about 1910, and later on, it was the place where the guest workers and "transients" from the mainland, called the "Monarchen" housed, they came here to find work during the harvest, and called the barn "Belvedere".

Schlagsdorf, 2 km north of Petersdorf - Postbus available - the village has two parts, west of the...> Pg. 31: village the drinking pond for livestock, called "Hardenkamp-Soll", a very lonely place, it’s more for hermits who want their privacy.

Staberdorf, in the south eastern part of the island, 7 km away from Burg - Post-bus connection - this is a round village, called a ‘Rundlingsdorf’. At the village pond an old "Thingplatz" - it is not in the original state, but it lies in ruins. On the West Side a village row with old laborer’s homes. North of the village the 23,2 m high hill, called "Hinrichsberg" with the last, not ruined Stone-henge grave, fehmarnsch ‘Steinkammergrab’, grown over with sloe thorns.

Staberhof, an estate that dates back to 1745, with a large farm, beautiful landscaped trees of silver poplar, it still has a small forest, the only woodland still standing on the island, called the ‘Staberholz’, 8 1/2 ha in size, it used to belong to the Danish King, with oak-feeding and masting of pigs established. South of it the 20 m high lighthouse, built about 1903, called the ‘Leuchtturm Staberhuk’. Here is a coastline, very much destroyed by wind and weather, with deep crevasses in the banks. A walk in the north direction, along the beach, toward Katharinenhof is an adventure, that one never ever forgets.

Strukkamp, 2 km away from Fehmarnsund. Some time ago many well-to-do seafarers lived here. In the last years, because of the construction of the "Vogelfluglinie" a great deal of ground breaking has been done here. There is a small warning signal built in 1890, as a guidance to pass through the sound. A beautiful view over the sound toward the other side of the mainland, Holstein. Here is a tent campsite.

Sulsdorf, 5 km south of Petersdorf - rail- and Post-bus connection. South of the village a small hill, called "Wasserburg", there once stood a toll- and guardhouse.

Next door the low-lying area called the "Wiek" or "Wunn" - on the left side an Innland sea used for raising Pyke.

Teschendorf, 3 km south west of Landkirchen, near the bog, called the "Teschendorfer Moor" in German, in 1940 a very interesting prehistoric settlement was discovered here at this site and dug out, many tools were found, see the Museum.

Todendorf, 7 km north of Burg, with the estate of "Poggensick", a forgotten lonely place. During the Middle Ages the pilgrim’s road led through here, called the "Gottesweg". Different middle-age coins have been uncovered here.

Vadersdorf, a larger farm village, 5 km north of Landkirchen - Post-bus connection. Old-fashioned estate of "Hopp" - "N. Wilder" - also the old homestead of "Lafrentz", now it belongs to "H. J. Höpner".

Vitzdorf, 3 km east of Burg - Post-bus connection. Large farm estate of "Thomsen" - typical wealthy ownership - also notice the construction of the "Bügge-Mau" estate. West of the village the low-lying area called the "Senke", it used to be called: "Natel" - a bog-like Inn-land sea. Here many prehistoric bog-finds were uncovered.

Wenkendorf, on the northern coast of Fehmarn, 6 km north of Petersdorf, a very interesting Inn-land sea area. Along the beach a beautiful excursion area, the "Teichhof" - a very comfortable place right on the Fehmarn bay with a marvelous view of the Baltic Sea.

Westermarkelsdorf, in the north west corner of the island, the people here called this "de Ewigkeit", Low German for eternity, 7 km north of Petersdorf with a light house built in 1882 at the "Hakenorth". Another beautiful view over the Fehmarn Bay, on a clear day one can see all the way to the Danish island: "Langeland". It has a charming village setting - not quite as modern as some places here on Fehmarn".

Wulfen, an old fishing village on the southern coast of the island, 4 km south west of Burg, along the Burgstaakener Inn-land sea or "Binnensee". South of the village, the hill called the "Wulfener Berg", a large prehistoric stone-age burial sight. On the right side of the estate "Bergmühle", about 18 m high, for geologists a very educational sand- and gravel-pit, also a clay area with melting sand layers and other interesting floor formations. East on the land-tongue you find the "Wulfener Hals", now a Red-Cross tent camp - close to the beach villa "Vogelhütte". At the steep bank the many different coastal crumbling and devastation of the soil. Great view over the ‘Fehmarnsund’ and toward the mainland "Europe". On the western point, the stretch of beach called the neck "Hals"; you can see the entrance into the "Burgstaaken" harbor. Here you can look over to Burgtiefe.

Literary introduction:

If you want to learn more about the island Fehmarn, it’s history, stories, and tradition etc. you might want to take down this information:

Published by: Peter Wiepert, which are not as available - some are in bookstores on Fehmarn, maybe in antique bookstores or in the museum, or in libraries in Kiel or Lübeck.

1. Fiete Lammers, true story of a person from Fehmarn - Low German, plattdeutsch. 20 pages. 1922.

2. Fehmarn - January and February pamphlet of the publication "Die Heimat", Kiel, 34 pages. 1929.

3. "Opn Truerkamp" - (On a mourning camp)a true story out of church records. Low German. 64 pages. 1932.

4. "Die Kirche in Landkirchen", history, Fehmarn traditions. 64 pages, 3 photos. 1936.

5. Singing themes for old folk-dancing on Fehmarn. 1937.

6. "Führer durch die Stadt Burg und die Dörfer auf der Insel Fehmarn" (A guide through the city of Burg and the villages of the island Fehmarn). 177 pages, 9 photos. 1943.

7. Dor kem dorna een swore Tied.(Hard times are coming) - Remembering "Klaus Groth" being on the island Fehmarn. - High German. 54 pages. 1949.

8. "Krone im blauen Meer",(Crown in the blue ocean) The Fehmarn directory. 80 pages. - 1953.

9. "Von der Wiege bis zur Bahre" (From the cradle to the grave) - Fehmarn traditions. 64 pages. 1955.

10. Many publications in "Die Heimat", Kiel - "Kieler Nachrichten" - "Volk im Werden", Berlin - "Fehmarnsches Tageblatt", Burg - and published between 1950 - 59 in the newspaper: "Lübecker Nachrichten" in Lübeck.